Fishing in Argentina February/March 2018

This is Steve’s narrative of our trip to Argentina. You can tell he writes to a different audience than I do. I will add pictures to the post.

Our next trip was to Argentina where I fished the Chimehuin out of Tipiliuke Lodge near San Martin de los Andes on Feb 26, 27, 28 and then after a stay in Villa Angostura, the Traful and Limay out of Estancia Arroyo Verde near Bariloche, March 3-7.

Tipiliuke (tipiliuke.com) is a beautiful old lodge in a very large estancia, with the Lanin volcano, over 11,000 feet and snow capped, visible in the distance.

There are 2 rivers, plus a constructed spring creek, but I fished the main draw, the Chimehuin, all 3 days. My guide was Adrain, a very experienced and knowledgeable guide and fisherman, who is captain of the Argentine national team. The Chimehuin is a good sized river with deep pools, fast runs,and broad riffles, crossable at this low water season. The water temperature was 60-62 and the river was very clear. It is populated with wild rainbows and browns, with some huge browns taken, especially in April. the weather was beautiful every day-cool mornings that warmed to around 60 by the time we hit the water around 10 am, and peaking around 75-80 in late afternoon. It was breezy, but nothing like Chile. The fishing day was 10 am until around 2 pm, then a great lunch back at the lodge and a siesta, followed by an evening session from around 6 pm until dark, which was close to 9 pm even this late in the season. Dinner was at 10 pm. On February 26 I fished the El Cardinal beat and caught 12 rainbows and 2 browns in the first session, with the best a 17 ” rainbow . Most came on Adrian’s fullinguista nymph, a spartan Spanish perigon nymph of thread and UV cement with a copper bead. For the pm session, I fished the Whitestone beat and caught 13 rainbows and 3 browns, none over 13″. Fishing was fast and furious during the last half hour of daylight swinging a yellow mayfly nymph in a fast riffle.

On February 27, I fished the Anquendo beat for the am session and caught 14 rainbows and 1 brown. I caught 2 on the PMX, one on a fly I tied, and most of the rest on another Euro nymph, the blue and orange. (Linda’s comment is “the blue and orange, not to be confused with the orange and blue”) Three fish were 16-17.75″ and three others were 13-14″. For the pm, I fished Andres’ pool and Cormorant Island, and caught 9 rainbows and 2 browns. One rainbow was 18″. Again the yellow mayfly nymph was hot, but I also caught 3 on the dun, a size 8. The hatch lasts only 20 minutes but it’s great fun.

On February 28 I fished the same beat as the prior pm, just a lower section. I caught 18 rainbows and 2 browns in the am session, most on another Euro nymph called the Superman because of its red and blue colors. I also caught 5 on small dries. Again, my largest was an 18′ rainbow. For the evening I convinced Linda to go out for the yellow fly hatch. She caught 3 swinging the nymph in fast waster, one a hard fighting 16 incher, and she was briefly attached to a really big fish. This time we have both photo and video evidence, thanks to Adrian. Adrian had me use his Euro nymphing outfit, a 10 foot, 3 weight rod with a tiny reel spooled with monofilament. I quickly caught 8, none large, in a nice run, then one more on the yellow fly nymph,giving me 30 for the day and 86 for the 3 days on the Chimehuin. I loved both the river and Tipiliuke Lodge, and would like to return some day. Adrian was a superb guide, both enthusiastic and knowledgeable.

Starting on the evening of March 3, I fished the Traful on the property of Estancia Arroyo Verde. estanciaarroyoverde.com.ar. Both the river and lodge are justly famous for their beauty and ambiance.

Fernando Gonzalez was my guide for the entire stay. Like Adrian, he is very experienced and knowledgeable. On this first evening, I caught 2 7 inchers on a PMX. The next morning, March 4, was cool and windy and we fished the upper 2 pools where landlocked salmon are often found. We sighted 5, which I cast to hundreds of times, with no action. In the pm session, I fished some gorgeous water downstream and caught only 3 small fish on the PMX. The water was slow and extremely clear, and a bit too warm, which could explain the lack of good fish showing . I asked Fernando what he thought and he said, “I have many excuses. I just don’t know which one is right”. But I knew going in that the Traful is moody and difficult, with few fish but also some really big ones. March 5 started well. It was a beautiful sunny toning, cool and calm. I caught a 19″ brown on my first cast at the head of a small side channel on a PMX and caught 6 small rainbows on dries. We also saw 3 very nice browns in a willow lined side channel, and marked their lies for the evening session. In the evening I caught only 1 15″ brown on a Fat Albert . The others we saw in the morning did not show.

On March 6 I floated the Limay from 12 Miles upstream of the reservoir down to its entrance. The Limay is big water, even this late in the season. Wading is not really an option. It has a mixture of small to medium sized rainbows and browns that can exceed 10 pounds. The rainbows take insect imitations but the browns eat meat, especially a crab called a Pancora, which is very common. It is 1-2 inches long and very dark. We used a PMX or chubby Chernobyl on a 6 weight and pancora imitations on a 7 weight with a fast sinking tip. The fish were widely scattered, with the best fishing in the shallowest, fastest water. Deep runs and pools simply did not produce, although they do at times produce big browns. I caught 5 browns and 7 rainbows for the day. The rainbows were 10-15″, and only one came to a dry, although I missed 2 nice browns on the PMX. All of the other fish took the pancora or an articulated leech. One of these was a very thick brown, over 21″ that Fernando guesstimated at 2.5 kg, or about 5.5 pounds. But the star of the day was a very fat 18 inch brown that was as beautiful as any I’ve caught. All of the fish that took the pancora or leech crushed it. On March 7, we again tried for salmon in the 2 uppermost pools below the lake outlet. The first had no fish visible, but 3 were sitting on a shallow gravel bar in the second pool. After many casts, I was able to hook and land a very nice 24 incher on an ugly bug nymph. I was very disappointed with the fight, mostly head shaking and a few short runs. Later, I caught a small brown and a small rainbow, giving me the grand slam for the Traful. In the evening, we again went hunting for big browns, but I caught only 4 smallish rainbows on the PMX. However, that evening another guest, Dennis Hall of Calgary, who has fished the Traful for years, caught an incredible 29.5″ brown on a big streamer, besting the 28″ brown he’d caught a few years back. The prior evening, in response to my commenting that the fishing was slow, Dennis remarked “Yes, but always remember that on this river your next cast can produce the fish of a lifetime”. This is why I want to return to the Traful. Fernando emphasized that April is best, when the water cools and the browns begin their spawning run, both from the lake above and reservoir below. Likewise the Limay gives up its best fish then.

Overall, I caught 32 during my 4.5 days of fishing at Arroyo Verde, and 118 for the trip.

I hope that you enjoyed Steve’s trip report and my inserted pictures!

Thursday March 1, 2018. On the way to Villa la Angostura Updated.

We left Tipiliuke and headed south west to San Martin de los Andes. On the way we passed a Jack Nicklaus designed golf course. Did you know that Jack liked to fish also?There are a few lots available to purchase in the golf course development. This is one of the grocery stores that I stopped at with Mary Jo the other day. No time to stop today, we had places to go, adventures to enjoy! San Martín de los Andes is located at the end of Lake Lácar, or Lagar Lácar as the Argentinians say. There are lots of roses everywhere, and the buildings are built in a Tyrollean style. Many of the shops sell ski gear, chocolates and sporting clothes. Lagar Lácar is a glacial lake, and there is only development near the base of the lake. Lanin National Park was created in 1937, and the logging industry that had been prevalent was ended. The area reminded me of Lake George without the houses!It’s about 12:40 on a Thursday afternoon, only a few people are on the beach. It would be equivalent to a Thursday after Labor Day back home. There are a few boats at the marina here to take people on a cruise.We stopped to enjoy the view at Lago Machónico vista. Here is Steve with our driver. I can’t remember his name, but he did have a sexy Argentinian accent! Not to worry though, Steve is still my main squeeze!This is a picture of the truck we were driven in. They had lots of truck similar to this in Chile also. Steve thinks that they would sell like hot cakes in the US. Here is a panoramic view of Lago Machónico vista. We eventually passed by seven of the lakes, that I previously told you we would pass on Seven Lakes Road. After almost 3 hours we arrived at Villa La Angostura. More later!

Thursday March 1, 2018 Goodbye Tipiliuke!

It is our last morning at Tipiliuke and I thought it might be interesting for you to see the aerial view from Google Maps. Tipiliuke Lodge is also known as Estancia Los Pinos. I believe there are over 1000 trees from around the world here! The Estancia is still family owned, but Kevin and Mary Jo are in charge of the guest lodge. We did not meet any of the family on our trip, maybe next time! Yes, the weather was sunny and delightful. Back home they were expecting a terrible snow storm. This view is from a little higher up, you an see the meandering stream quite well. If you drive further to the right down 49, you will end up at River House. Now from farther up in the sky, you see Junin de los Andes at the top of the picture. San Martin de los Andes is just south and to the west. It’s on a lake, you can’t quite see the lake as the name is in the way.

Our trip to our next stop Villa La Angostura, is on Route 40, also known as Seven Lakes Road. Can you guess how many lakes we will pass today?

After two nights at Villa la Angostura we will continue on 40 towards Bariloche (just under San Carlos on the bottom of the map), then head north to Villa Traful to stay at Arroyo Verde.

You can see Volcano Orsono on the lower left of the map. Last year when we were in Chile we stayed near Osorno!

Here are some lovely pictures from the Tipiliuke website. This is the map of the Estancia. It is almost 50,000 acres! The Larminat Brothers came to Tipiliuike in 1909 from France. They fell in love with the area, as does everyone who visits here! The Larminat family still owns the Estancia.

An aerial view of the lodge where we stayed. You can see the pergola where we had lunch on the left of the picture.

There is a beautiful view of Tipiliuke from the back garden. This phot was taken in the fall.

This was the bar, where everyone would gather at all times of the day. This is where I would sit and work on my blog. I would often show Maru or Monica a picture and ask them what it was, for my posts. Here is the living room. We didn’t have any fires as it was summer. Here we see the afternoon tea and coffee set up.

After a day of fishing, Steve would return to this sight. How welcoming! Life doesn’t get much better than this, does it? Here is a picture of Adrian, who was Steve’s guide. Maru and Monica, comprise the rest of the trio. This picture was taken earlier in the week. Maru left on Tuesday to fly to Buenos Aries to attend her sister’s wedding. There were going to be 400 guests, I told her to keep her eyes open there for a special someone. In my romance novels, weddings are often a great place to meet your future spouse! Here is another picture of the interns. Aren’t they handsome? I didn’t inquire if they needed girlfriends back home! Send me your email if interested, and I will try to forward it to the guys!

Here I am saying good bye to Monica! My hat is at a jaunty angle, isn’t it? Monica and I both have our chins placed correctly, our guts are sucked in and our shoulders back. We are picture posing pros!

Okay, good bye Tipiliuke, our driver awaits and we are off to our next Excellent Adventure!

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Wednesday February 28, 2018 Afternoon and Evening, Tipiliuke

After my road trip to Junin de los Andes with Kevin, we returned to the lodge and had another lovely lunch under the pergola. We started with a lovely salad of fresh greens, cheese, some Parma ham and then a light drizzle of Balsamic vinegar.

Next course was a bit of beef, with carrots and potatoes.

Dessert was a delightful mint mousse with a topping of dark chocolate. Very refreshing. I should have switched my dessert with the guest next to me, as her dessert didn’t have a bumpy top!

We had some new guests join us, a couple from Washington State, and a beautiful blonde with great posture who was a travel advisor. The previous day we had a lovely couple arrive from Atlanta. It is always easier to remember new names of guests when they arrive only two at a time! I have learned to use my Notes function on my iPhone. I write the names of the guests down right away and where they are fun. Otherwise the names go flying right back out of my mind.

We relaxed the rest of the day until evening.

Steve had found that the fishing was best the last hour of the day. He is always trying to get me to go fishing with him. When everyone asks me if I fish, I say that “I never want to come between Steve and a fish!”. I don’t want that big fish to take my fly instead of Steve’s.

We found some waders and shoes in the correct size for me and I geared up!

Adrian could help with my casting, and then we would hit the may fly hatch just before dark. Sunset is quite late here, that’s why dinner isn’t until 9:30. Often guests miss out on the best fishing as their guides are in a hurry to come back in. Steve is always “One more cast!”

Here I am in the Chimehuin. Adrian is next to me, explaining the technique and where I should cast. He left me after awhile and went to where Steve was as Steve was catching fish. Adrian wanted to make sure that Steve had the European nymphing technique down pat also! I did catch a little one, and also had a fish jump near me. I lost another fish just after I set the hook. Don’t I look happy? I think I really look like I know what I am doing!Here are Steve and Adrian. The sun has still not set, there is lots of time left to fish.

Fishing slowed down, and my back was starting to hurt. My casting technique was for shit, I would jerk, and hurl my body causing an terrible twist to my body. I am sure it looked atrocious and Steve was probably biting his lip in laughter. I wisely decided to stop fishing until the may flies started to hatch. Adrian had brought a camp chair along, and I plopped down in it and watched Steve catch fish. I must admit that I read a little bit of one of my romance novels on my Kindle app on my phone, I am a multi task type of gal! This picture was taken at 8:29, you can see how light out it is still! Steve has always wanted to fish under a full moon, I think that would be quite exciting!

The sun soon set, and after no action at one spot, we drove to where Adrain hoped the action would be. Steve had been pretty successful the night before, during the last hour before darkness and we hoped for a good yellow may fly hatch.

The water at this next section was pretty deep and hard to wade. I would hold on to Adrian’s arm when we moved and then released my hold, settled my stance and would begin to cast. The fish were on! I caught this beautiful medium size rainbow. He sure was squiggly! I caught a much larger fish also, Adrain thought he was 16 inches, a nice size fish. Of all the fish that day, my 16 incher was the largest. Steve of course had the most fish for the evening.

Steve did catch some bigger fish during the week. We will have to wait for the total numbers for Steve’s fishing at Tipiliuke, in my wrap up posting for the trip. I think he caught over 75 in total! None that were trophy size, but he had a lot of action. The goal was for him to catch a fish in February and one in March, so we were halfway to the goal! All the meals at Tipiliuke were posted on the blackboard. Here is the menu for our final night. The spinach with egg was piping hot, and delicious! Next up was the homemade spaghetti. Final course was the fruit crisp with vanilla ice cream.

Steve and I wished everyone a good night and it was off to bed. Unfortunately I forgot that it was our last night and I did not get a chance to say good bye to Mary Jo.

Kevin and Mary Jo split their coverage at the Estancia. Kevin is there all day long, eating lunch with the guests and guides. Mary Jo has the late afternoon and evening shift, eating dinner with the guests. They are never sick, and never tire of meeting the guests and being with them. They have run lodges for over 25 years, and been at Tipiluke for over 20! During the off season Kevin is a ski instructor at Chapelco in St. Martin de los Andes.

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Wednesday Morning February 28, 2018 Tipiliuke

Wednesday morning Steve and i had breakfast and then he went off fishing with Adrian. Did I tell you that Adrian is one of the heed guides at Tipiliuke? He is also the head of the Argentinian Fly Fishing Team. The contest will be held in Northern Italy this year. Adrian was tutoring Steve in the European Nymphing Style. Steve has been quite successful using this method. The Angler can only use it in very fast water. That’s all I’ve got on the technique. you are on your own to understand the rest.

While Steve was fishing, Kevin asked if I wanted to go into Juninde Los Andes, hunting season was starting soon and Kevin needed to get the necessary permits for the arriving hunters. Kevin asked if I would like to go into town to visit the Gaucho store. He thought the readers of my blog-meaning you-my dearest fans- would enjoy a visit. So si si! Kevin and I jumped into the truck and were off. What better name for a Gaucho Store but “Patagonia Rodeo?”

There was lots of stuff for sale in the store. Here we see a selection big Mate cups and straws, picture frames and coffee thermoses.

I am not sure if I have told you about Mate, and Mate etiquette on this trip. Mate is a warm herbal drink enjoyed by any South Americans. It is sipped through a straw. It is not served boiling hot, like tea or coffee. Mateine, where the name mate is derived from is similar to caffeine, it gives you a good buzz. The Mate is sipped through a straw called a bombilla.

I usually wait to be asked if I would like some, and then take a sip or two. You either pass the cup to the next person or you hand it back to the person who brewed it. You do not say “Thank You”, if you do, you don’t get the cup back. Saying “Thank You” is considered rude.

No, I did not buy a Mate cup or bombilla this year! Maybe next trip!

Here are some beautiful silver belt buckles. Do you think that Steve would like the ones with the trout on them? Well too bad for him, I didn’t buy him one!There were some beautiful knives that I think my friends Charlie and Greg would like. They didn’t get any presents either. There were lots of bridles also. I didn’t even get our daughter’s pony something either!There were los of boots for sale, both for him and for her. These are the thermoses to hold you hot water for your Mate break when you are on the go!There were lots of sheep skins for the saddle. Hats, blankets, saddles and wraps were available also. This shelf held lots of shirts, pants, and berets!

These are some of the handsome belts available. I was thinking about getting Steve a belt. I wasn’t sure about his size. If I got him too big, he might think I thought he was fat, if I got too small, he’d think I thought he was skinnier that he actually was, and therefore he might think he was fat! So I played it safe and got him nothing. He told me afterward that he was a 38. The belts were all sold in centimeters so a size 38, wouldn’t have done me any good anyway!So the whole idea was to show you how belts are made right? Here we have the young belt maker. Like Steve, he isn’t quite sure where to look for a picture. The belts are hand made. Here Senor Belt Maker Jr. is sewing the thread into the belt. I am not sure if the design is free style, or if he had a pattern already transferred to the belt. I also have some video but that won’t be posted until we come back from the trip. Or maybe not! You’ll have to come back to find out!Here you see four colors of horse leather. Natural leather is on the bottom of the display. Brown when the skin is dyed by coffee, green is from a mate dip and then the red is from a dip in beet juice. The skin is cut into skinny pieces and then sliced again into a thread. Here is the finished belt, made with all the colors of horse thread. Kevin said that the belts are extremely long lasting, he has had his belt for over 40 years! That I can’t believe, I think something was lost in translation!

I am going to break the blog into much shorter posts. I am having problems loading my pictures from my iphone to my ipad. I have found that I can link my ipad keyboard to my iphone and post that way. I am sure I have bored you to death with my posting problems, but I wanted to keep you updated. I have heard some complaints about no postings. I shall not punish them, by taking them off my email list, as I need every last visitor!

Once again, thank you for stopping by my blog. I would love to hear comments from you. My number one commentor is Cathy V. The rest of you have some serious catching up to do! If you can’t comment push the like button! It has to be there somewhere!

Tuesday February 27, Tipiliuke Afternoon and Evening

I left you yesterday halfway through the Asado. We had two more courses of meat. Now that’s my kind of meal, meat, meat, and more meat! I love the little touches here. Even the forks and knives used at lunch have the Tipiliuke mark on them! Dessert was yummy as usual. It will be interesting to see how much weight I gain this vacation. I am a little less active than at home. Of course I could always go fishing with Steve all day, and wade those rivers. That burns a lot of calories. But if I did that, there would be no blog! A beautiful bowl of fruit is passed at dessert for those people who aren’t into the high caloric treats. Or, you could be like me and eat both! In the afternoon there is always a set up of coffee and tea with cookies in the living room. Steve had free time in the afternoon between fishing sessions. I convinced him to come look at River House. Doesn’t he look happy? He hasn’t even seen the stream yet!Steve is checking out the river. The house comes with a mile of river frontage. The sale of River House to the Lants was not to be. It was a fun dream while it lasted! Does anyone have a bridge in Brooklyn they want to try to sell me? This is Kevin’s truck. I got to ride in it a lot. I think they go through tires and shocks pretty often. The roads are very bumpy! While Steve went to his late afternoon and fish until dark session, I asked to go to St. Marin de los Andes. Guess where I went? You got it, a supermarket! There were no doubts that I would get my visit, was there? This supermarket had everything! School starts next week, so all the uniforms were out. In Argentina, the children wear white smocks. Pens, markers, and other school paraphernalia were in the bins. This is the vegetable aisle. Chicken looks like chicken everywhere! The butcher was hard at work. I looked for some of the fancy Pisco Sour bottles that we saw in Chile, but only the Easter Island Brand was available. There were lots of Coke products. Mary Jo told me that this was a mix of ketchup and mayonnaise. I told her that I had never heard of Salsa Golf before!Potato Chips are everywhere!In America this soup is called “Cup A Soup”. There were many brands of Dulce De Leche. Mary Jo said that the cereal aisle was really limited compared to the United States. She was correct! The toilet paper here had some pretty high class names!Mary Jo told me that most of the empanadas are made with store brought crusts. That way all you had to do was fill and bake or fry. While I was at the grocery store Steve caught this beautiful rainbow. He ended up with 26 fish for the day. During the last hour of daylight they hit a Yellow May Fly hatch, and he did very well. This photo was taken at 8:12 pm! Steve finally made it back and we could eat dinner. My time stamp shows that this picture was taken at 9:56! I told you that we ate dinners late here. Back home I would be in bed with a book! Dinner was salmon, green beans and tomatoes. We had a chocolate cake for dessert.

Now might be a good time to talk about the guests at Tipiliuke. While we were here we met people from Mexico, Germany, England, and the United States. In talking to Kevin and Mary Jo, we learned that a former president has stayed here. Within the last year, one of the richest men in America stayed here also. When VIPs stay, they buy out the whole Estancia for their entourage. The President didn’t sleep in my room, so I can’t say that I slept in a Presidential bed or used the same toilet that he did!

That’s all for Tuesday!

Tuesday February 27, 2018 Tipiliuke Adventures Continue

Breakfast was a fried egg and bacon for me. No pictures of Steve’s breakfast as he ate earlier. I thought he was only going to get coffee and then come back to get me. Instead, he ate breakfast by himself. Silly Steve!This picture of staff full of smiles is of Adrian, Steve’s fishing guide and Maru and Monica. Monica would love a someone special also. He doesn’t need to live in the mountains full time as Maru’s prospective husband does. Monica will relocate to the city when the estancia is closed. Adrian has a family and children so he is off limits ladies! Adrian was a wonderful guide. He will be on the Argentinian Fly Fishing Team in the World Cup of Fishing. This is a picture of the kitchen at Tipiliuke, this is where all the delicious food comes from. I had some free time before a massage I was scheduled for. Harry took me along with him to see the property. Not sure what this is, but the roses are lovely. There is a chapel on site, but if you would love to have an intimate wedding in Patagonia, this is the place. Remember the web site is tipiliuke.com

The chapel is made of local stone, like all the buildings at Tipiliuke. Harry has found the key and is opening the door for me. We are looking at the front of the chapel here. This is the view of the bride and groom as they exit the chapel. Martin and Sybille were trying to get Maya and Jeraldo to marry here. Maybe next visit!

Here are more beautiful gardens!More rose gardens! We have a busy bee here. This was the room for the massage. My massage by Irene was wonderful. She is camera shy, so no pictures of her! The sauna was just off the masssage room. There is no swimming pool here, but it can be arranged to bring you to a private beach where you can wade and sun. I am too buy blogging to wade and sun!

Steve caught 15 fish again in the morning. Lunch was going to be an asado! That is barbecue. Here we see the meat had just been put on the grill. An hour later and the meat is almost ready!

Lunch was again outside under the pergola. Here we have the setup of the salad fixings. Doesn’t the table look lovely? The pine cones are amazing!This was my salad. First meat course was sausages!

Got to run! I am going out with Steve tonight to fish!